Tokyo Union Church Women's Society Shinbokukai 7/1/2010

This is a record of a short presentation on the Shibuya River and a book ‘How to walk the Shibuya River’. This is done at Shinbokukai of TUC Women’s Society on July 1 by Kimiko Kajiyama. Please enjoy the historical stories and the pictures.

 What is the Shibuya River ?
The Shibuya River now flows through Shibuya-ku and Minato-ku to Tokyo Bay. The upper parts were covered and gone under the ground. But still you can see the beautiful remains of the River here and there. (Please see the Map)

At a meeting room in Izumi Garden

Now I am thinking “Why did I get interested in the Shibuya River?” I moved to Ebisu area 10 years ago, so this area was very new for me. But first I found Shibuya just a big city and only for young people, shopping and eating. Then I decided to explore the city to find something good. First I visited museums and restaurants with my friend Sachiko Maeda. I found that the Museums were not so interesting. By chance I saw a tiny river near Shibuya Station. And then I found the same river flowing in Ebisu area about 300 m from my home.

I came to know that this river is called the Shibuya River and it has a history. So Sachiko and I decided to explore the river together. We shared such a good time checking the materials in the library, interviewing the people who know about the old river, and visiting temples and shrines. And after 6 and half year-checking and writing,  Sachiko advised me to publish this book. So I added new information and interviewed many more people and at last published this book in June.

'How to walk the Shibuya River' 

Well, did you know about the Shibuya River? No? It was same for me. I hadn’t known anything about the River till I moved to Ebisu area. I came to know that a river flowed outside the south exit of the Toyoko line near Shibuya Station. It was not a beautiful river. All of the banks and riverbeds were covered with concrete. The backs of the houses and buildings faced the river so closely. But the city river had something attractive. I had just come back from Paris where I saw La Seine River. It was a pity to compare the tiny Shibuya River to La Seine. In any way, after a little while I checked a map and found that the Shibuya River started to flow at Shibuya Station to Ebisu and Minato-ku all along the back street of Meiji Dori or along Meiji Dori itself and then ending at Tokyo Bay. Now it’s difficult to see the Shibuya River because the upper part of the river was covered as Tokyo prepared for Olympic in 1964. They covered the river with new streets and highways.  

Before 1964 it was a dear old river. The river was natural and with people. I introduce you one little story from the book. Uta-san who lives nearby Ebisu Station talked this story to me. After the World War 2, there used to be a fire tower next to Shibuya-bashi Bridge by Ebisu Station. One fire fighter was watching out for fire. And then he found an eel swimming in the river and he got down quickly from the tower and caught the eel and ate it. How lucky he was! Utasan heard that the eel was very tasty. The Shibuya River in that age seems to have been very natural and full of fish.

From now I‘ ll show you pictures of the river which are covered and uncovered.
(Please see the Map)

 1.       Let me show you a part from a page of ‘Edo-kiriezu Map' . Edo Period was from 1603 to 1868. This is the present Shinjyuku Garden area near the Shinjyuku Gyoen mae Station. Two flows are the uppermosts of the old Shibuya River.

   Edo-kiriezu Map (Naito-Shinjyuku-Sendagaya-henzu)

2.       The right side flow in the map was flowing from Tamagawa city water way and flowed under the pathway (see the below picture) just outside of Shinjyuku Garden. (Tamagawa city water way was created by Shogunate to supply water to Edo in 1653.)

  

3.       This pond is the lowest pond in Shinjyuku Garden. This was a part of the Shibuya River before, which is drawn at the left side in the ‘Edo-kiriezu Map’.

  

4.       This is Naito Shrine outside Shinjyuku Garden. This shrine was a protector of Naito family, the Tokugawa Shogunate vassal. Naito family was given this area because the first master of Naito worked hard for the Tokugawa family. 

  

5.       This is Kiyomasa’s well inside Meiji Shrine. From that place the water is still flowing and we can see it. But in reality, you cannot see the well. Why? Because it has become one of the famous power spots in Shibuya. It is so popular that people stand in line very early morning and has to stand 3 to 5 hours to see the well. They are sure that the picture of the well in their keitai gets them happiness. So it is impossible to see the well. Don’t you think so?

6.       The water is still flowing under this interesting street Brahms’s Lane, which is very close to Tokyo Union Church.

  

7.       This is the Cats’ Street, covered river, crossing with Omotesando by Chanel.

8.       This is a picture from Edo period, ‘Onden’s Water Wheel’. It was by the Cats’Street. You can see the picture on the board by Jingumae koban. It polished rice.

9.       This is a continuous part of the Cats’Street, where the water wheel turned.

10.       They say there used to bloom Kohone flower, a kind of lotus, in the Kohone River. The river's name 'kohone' is originated from this flower. Now you can see plenty of beautiful Kohone at Hakone-Shisseikaen (June to September).

12.    From Shibuya Station walk along the Roppongi Street, and turn to the right we can see Konno Hachiman Shrine. In the spring the cherry trees are blooming here. They say there used to be the Shibuya Castle in this area protected by the Shibuya River. The lord of the castle was Shibuya Konnomaru, the hero of Shibuya in medieval age. This is a shrine dedicated to Shibuya Konnomaru. 

13.    This is a pond in Nezu Museum. The water from Minamiaoyama valley flowed into this pond and then made a big tributary of the Shibuya River
  A pond in Nezu Museum


14.    We can see the Rinsen park near Ebisu. ‘Hiroo Suisya’, the oldest water wheel in Shibuya, was here. The river continues to flow from Shibuya.

15.    This is a picture of Hiroshige at Shinohashi. The title is ‘Hiroo Furukawa’. In this area, the name of the Shibuya River was changed to the Furu River (Furukawa). This is how it looked 200 years ago. The two-storied house is said to be an eel restaurant. In Edo period plenty of eel might have swum in this river.

16.    This is the present day of Shinohashi. The Furu River is under the high way.

17.    This is a pond in Happoen Garden. It was a part of ‘tributary', the Tamana River. The Tamana River started from another pond in upper place and went through Happoen Garden and Miyako Hotel and Kakurinji temple. And then flowed into the Furu River. In the garden of Miyako Hotel we can see a dry water way still now.

18.    This is Shiba Zojyouji Temple. This is dedicated to three Shoguns of Tokugawa.The Furu River flows under the foot of this site.

19.    This is Daimon Gate. One of the tributaries was flowing in front of Daimon Gate.

  

20.    In this Edo picture you can see the river flowing along the street in front of Daimon Gate. (Hiroshige, ‘Toutomeisyo Shiba Shinmei Zojyoji Zenzu’)

21.    We can see the fishing boats from Shogenbashi Bridge near Tamachi Station.

22.    The Furu River flows into the Tokyo Bay at this place, Hamazakibashi Bridge. In the last picture, you can see the big cruise ship near International Hotel and Tokyo Bay. The Shibuya River (The Furu River) ends here near Yurikamome Station Takeshiba. From Shibuya it has been very narrow but here it widens to almost 80 m.

Thank you very much for your kind attention.
　
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